Sunday, July 31, 2011

Day 54
Sunday, July 31
On the Road to Dease Lake

Got to sleep late this morning!! We weren't scheduled to leave until between 8:30 and 9:30, so it was an easy morning. As we pulled out of the park we saw a string of motorhomes lined up at the gas station. Both Robert and I needed fuel, but we didn't want to wait in that long line. I read in the roadlog that there was another station .8 miles down the road, so I called to Robert and we went on to there. Fuel was the same price - $1.42 per liter - and there were no others in line. A quick fillup and we were on our way.

We took Highway 37, also known as the Cassier Highway. The first twenty miles or so the road was pretty good, a bit like a roller-coaster, but smooth. After about 4 miles we noticed that there had been one big forest fire. For the next 30 miles the forest was coal black - lots of trees with no foliage on them.  
After about twenty miles the road began to look like it had been in a disaster as well. There were lots of frost heaves, potholes and rough patches. We drove and bounced about 40 mph for the next 60 miles. The stop at Jade City was quite welcome. As we pulled in we noticed 12 other rigs and before we got inside 2 more came in. I guess everyone was ready for a break from the bumpy ride.

Jade City is a store that sells Jade that is mined from the nearby Princess Jade Mine.
 They had jade in all shapes and sizes and jade jewelry in every shape and form. They also had extremely high prices on most of their stuff. I did get a Jade City hat pin for $2.99 - with the 10% caravan discount and 12% tax it only cost me $3.01. I;m a big spender. That hatpin makes #81 for me, and I doubt there will be too many more.
Jade City did offer free coffee and clean restrooms so it wasn't a total waste of time.

We made it 40 more miles before stopping for lunch at a pullout beside a lake.  
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I am amazed by the number of lakes we have seen all over Canada and Alaska. The lakes along here are not very wide but they may be 2-3 miles long or longer. It was cold = 47 degrees -and misting so we had a snack in the trailer. Jenna even turned on the heat while we ate.

A short drive later and we got to Dease Lake - a wide spot in the road. Just short of town we saw a black bear with 3 cubs on the side of the road. The cubs were very small - about Lucy's size. We've seen cubs before but they were much larger than these. We will have a travel briefing at 4:30 and then after dinner we are meeting around a campfire to have smores and doughboys.
 
 
We also are having a "white-elephant" gift exchange which should bring some laughs.

Tomorrow we journey on to Stewart, Alaska - about 240 miles. This might be the highlight of the trip. This is the place where bears come into the river to feed on salmon trying to get upstream to spawn. You have probably seen this place on TV. I just hope the salmon are running and they bears are there. I'll let you know about all of that in tomorrow's blog. Till then - Happy Trails!!
Day 53
Saturday, July 30
On the Road to Northern Beaver Post

When I got up this morning I saw the tops of the mountains around Skagway for the first time. They say it is rainy or extremely foggy around the mountaintops more often than not. Everyone in the caravan was glad to see fog-free roads up the mountain. When we came into Skagway a few days ago we found extreme fog for the 11 mile drive downhill into town. Fog and low-hanging clouds would not be a problem today.

Everyone was up and ready to go by 7:45 today. I think the long drive - 308 miles - got everyone busy early. Our drive today was mostly retracking roads we have already driven. Once we passed the Canadian CUstoms we found ourselves back in the Yukon Territory. The first part of the drive was a winding road along a narrow fjord and low rock-covered mountains. The water in the fjord was a beautiful green as a result of the glacial silt in the melting snow and ice. For miles the water was mirror smoothe reflecting the trees and mountains on the southern shore. I love rock formations and today I got to see miles and miles of them.

Going through Customs is usually pretty easy with just standard questions such as: "Do you have alcohol with you?, How long will you be in Canada?. Do you have and firearms or weapons?" etc. Occasionally they will choose someone at random and ask a lot more questions or possibly even search your vehicle. Today was J.W. and Mary Jo's turn to be searched. As we passed them by they were standing outside their motorhome with their dog while the agent searched their rig. They said he looked in every cabinet and drawer but didn't look in the storage bins underneath. After about 10 minutes he let them go on their way. I guess they have to randomly select rigs to kind of keep people on their toes.

At Carcross we turned right on Highway 8 which was a shortcut back to the Alaska Highway. Without that shortcut we would have had to drive another 60 miles to Whitehorse to rejoin the Alaska Highway. This 34 mile road was the only road we took today that was new to us. Once we got back on the Alaska Highway it was about 245 miles to our destination. We were in and out of light rain the whole way.

As we got close to Northern Beaver Post we noticed lots of bicyclists on the highway. We've seen bicyclists throughout Canada and Alaska. Since we are in bear country up here they call them "meals on wheels," while joggers are called "fast food." The bikers today were strung out over about 20 miles. W noticed a large number of them off to the side of the road having left their bicycles on the shoulder. Suddenly we spotted a guy walking out of a stream stark naked. He just came walking up toward the road as if no one was within a country mile. Bet said she asked Robert if that man was naked and before he could reply Jenna called on the CB and said, "Bet, did you just see what I saw?" Tonight at our travel briefing Ken, our wagonmaster, asked if anyone had seen any wildlife today. We all pointed to Bet, and she got so tickeled she could hardly talk. Two others reported seeing 5 girls bicycling in the buff in the same area. It turned out that all those bikers had spent the night last night in the building where we were meeting. Several of the men in our group offered to gather up some clothes to take to those poor girls, but our wives wouldn't give us any of their clothes, so we didn't get to go. Go figure!!

At the travel briefing we noticed two boys who didn't belong to our group. They were guests of Cindy and Ron who met up with them in Teslin - about 100 miles back up the road. The two boys - one is 21 and the other is 22 - are from Belguim and have been touring Canada and Alaska since June 20. They were hitchhiking back toward Vancouver so they can fly back home on August 30. They have been as far north as Dawson CIty and Chicken. They canoed from Carcross to Dawson City a couple of weeks back. Cindy and Ron brought them here, bought them dinner, are letting them sleep on the floor of the motorhome, and then taking them to Deise Lake, our destination, tomorrow. There are lots of hickers up here. We were asked for a ride when we were over by Denali, but they were going north and we were going south. Most of the hickers are young and look OK, but who knows for sure?

After the travel briefing I fired up the grill and cooked steaks and chicken for Roni, Bruce, Bet, Robert and us. We all went to Bruce and Roni's motorhome to eat. Everybody brought something to add and we had a very tasty dinner. I helped Robert download some pictures to a thumb-drive for the Caravan's blog. It is Robert's day to write it.

Tomorrow we go to Dease Lake - about 150 miles away, so we don't have to get up and around so early. It's hard to believe that our tour is coming to an end - only 5 more days and then it's back to HOT Texas. Until tomorrow's blog - Happy Trails!!
Day 52
Friday, July 29
A Free Day in Skagway

Finally we woke up to no rain and fog; it was actually a semi-clear day with temperatures in the low 60's. The Wagonmasters and Tailgunners had prepared breakfast for us, so we all gathered about 8:00 to eat. Jenna and I put in 3 loads of laundry to wash while we ate. What we had for breakfast was pretty unique. They gave each of us a 1 quart zip-lock bag.  
 

We opened the bag and Ken broke two eggs into the bag. Then we added onions, green peppers, jalopinos, tomatoes to our liking and sealed the bag while squeezing all air out. We wrote our name on the front of the bag with vis-a-vis marker and dropped it into a pot of boiling water. Twelve minutes later we had a freshly cooked omelet! Add to that bacon, toast or biscuits, orange juice and coffee and you have the makin's of a good breakfast. We all sat around outside and enjoyed our breakfast and good conversation.

Following breakfast we were invited to Ron and Cindy's motorhome to watch a movie Cindy had made about the bears we saw in Valdez. She had taken loads of pictures of the bears and loaded them onto a Smilebox program that allows captions and music to be added. Forty-two adults stood outside their motorhome and watched and laughed at the hilarious movie and the comments Cindy had added. We had already seen a video about our white-water rafting trip, and she has made others about our cruise in Valdez and our journey in Denali National Park. She is one talented lady.

At 12:30 we carpooled down to the White Pass and Yukon Route railroad station. Thirty-four of our group opted to take a 3 hour roundtrip ride up the trail to the pass where prospectors walked as they made their way to the Yukon in 1898 in search of gold.  
We had one whole car for our group.  
The train ride is 20.4 miles up and the track rises 3000 ft. on the way. It was an uphill climb the entire way, and at times the last car was at least 25' above or below the engine. The ride reminded Jenna and me of the Durango/Silverton trainride in Colorado. The track was right on the edge of a mountain ledge most of the way, and we had scenic views of the mountains and valleys leading away from Skagway. At one point we looked about a mile across the valley and up to another train that was ahead of us. That train looked like it was just hanging onto the side of the mountain before it entered into a long tunnel.  
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Leading up to the point we crossed a long high trestle that bridged the valley and a river that ran through it. Along the entire route we saw towering waterfalls leading down to the river. It was a spectacular ride, but, in our opinion, to as scenic as the one in Colorado.

Cindy and Ron didn't go on the trainride and instead stayed back and fixed dinner for Roni, Bruce, Bet, Robert, Jenna and me. We went to their motorhome for dinner and drinks. Cindy is a talented lady on the computer and in the kitchen. She fixed a chicken casserole, slaw, and a fruit salad. Roni brought bread and Jenna took a cake. We celebrated Bet's birthday in style even if it was a day late. Ron, not to be outdone, "received" another proclaimation from the Skagway Traffic Department. It read as follows:

To: Gilbert Hall of Corisana, (about 1/2 the size of Alaska) Texas (note they can't even spell Corsicana)

You are hereby cited for not surrendering your Junior/Senior Ranger Status to the proper authorities as directed by the magistrate.
This direction was a result of the traffic violation of Wednesday, the 37th of July, 2011, and issued on said date.

As a result of your complete disregard for this office and the office of the Alaska Department of Natural Resources, and the Governor's
office, formerly occupied by Sarah Palen, you are put on notice.

Pending further investigation into your background, and a thorough search of your Red Chevy Pickup, this official agency will determine
the penalty to further impose. AT a minimum, you will be asked to leave the viallage of Skagway, and the great State of Alaska by
9:00 am, Saturday, the 31st of July, 2011

Now, as a result of your misbehavior, your wagonmaster has commenced his own investigation into your conduct. He has determined that
you have wiolated two vital and important items of protocall:
1) in your complete inattention to the Travel Briefings, and
2) for arriving at a campsite 2 minutes before the scheduled and appointed time.

These violations usually result in your being put into the worst parking spot in the park, with no view and no possible way of backing
into said spot.

These violations are issued by this jurisdiction.

The honorable Chief Justice SOAPY SMITH

Ron will not rest until I lose my Jr. Ranger status!!

After dinner we again carpooled downtown to the Days of '98 show. Prior to the show we were given $1,000 in play money to use in the casino. Actors from the play we were to see later served as dealers and they wanted us to be happy so that we would like the show. The blackjack rules were very lax - even to the point that if we all wanted the dealer to throw in her hand because she got a 21 and would have beat us all, she would do it. I won one hand and upped my bet from $200 to $700 as she was paying the first few people on the table. I ended up winning more than anyone on the table - $24,000. Too bad it was just play money.

The show was about Soapy Smith, a con-man who swindled many in Skagway out of money. It was a musical with just 4 actors - Soapy Smith, and three women who ran the local bar and brothel. They got one of our caravaners up on stage and got him involved - two of the "girls" fighting over his affections. They also got two women from our group up to help them do the can-can. It was a hoot!!

We got back home about 10:00 and I worked on the blog until about 11:30 when the computer quit on me. Tomorrow we go to Northern Beaver Post in the Yukon Territory for a one-night stay. There probably won't be much to report, but we'll see. Till then - Happy Trails.

Friday, July 29, 2011

Day 51
Thursday, July 28
Cruise to Juneau

6:30 came awful early this morning as we had to get up and around for our trip to Juneau. We ride-shared down to the small boat harbor where

we gathered waiting to load the Fjordlands for a 2 1/2 hour ride. While we were waiting, Ron called for everyone's attention and read the following announcement:

Original Proclamation

To: Gilbert Hall

As a result of floating a stop sign and the Major Intersection of 3rd and State Street in the Village of Skagway, Alaska, at the height of traffic,

And

After further review of your driver's license and a thorough background check of your past personal history, we the magistrate of the village of Skagway, Alaska, and with full cooperation of the Alaska Department of Natural Resources do hereby:

Resend and revoke your Jr. Ranger status.

All certificates, awards, trophies and cash receipts attained herby this Jr. Ranger must be returned to the Department of Natural Resources.

All said certificates, etc. shall be turned in to your wagonmaster, who in turn shall duly pass them on the the nearest sworn police officer.

By the power invested in me:

Officer Elroy P. Catchem
Alaska Police Force


How devastating!!! They wanted to take away the Jr. Ranger badge that I earned while touring the Kenai Fjords National Park. I swore that I would fight this injustice to the bitter end!!

After this horrible announcement we loaded the boat and took off for Juneau.

  The Fjordlands is a catamaran that cruises at 18 to 20 knots on the 120 mile trip to Juneau. We made a stop in Haines, Alaska to pick up two more passengers and then proceeded to Juneau. On the way the captain watched for wildlife and would stop the boat to allow us a better view. We ran into a large pod of humpback whales and watched them for several minutes.  
 
Repeatedly the would come to the surface to spout and dive back under. I was able to get a few shots of their spouting, humps, and a tail or two.   We all waited anxiously for one to really breach, but that must be something that only happens in commercials since we didn't see it.


We saw several beautiful waterfalls that came from the glaciers high above us on the mountaintops.
 
 
  The fog was so thick you could only catch fleeting glimpses of the glaciers and the beginnings of the falls.

We saw schools of dall porpoises and a few otters, stellar sea lions and lots of scenic views as we completed our run into Juneau. It was an incredibly smooth trip considering the wind was fairly stiff and the waves were a little high.

While in Juneau, we took a bus tour of downtown and had a little time to look around downtown. Three cruise ships were in port while we were

ther so it was a little crowded. We did see the state capital building. The driver proclaimed it the "ugliest state capital building in the United States." He said there were plans to build a new building shortly after statehood, but the chose to save money and not give representatives a comfortable place to be.

Following our free time in downtown we reloaded the bus and went to the Mendenhall Glacier.
 
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The Mendenhall Glacier is one of 38 glaciers in the Juneau Icefield.  
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It is several miles long and fronts into Mendenhall Lake. Many blue icebergs were floating in the lake. Last week a large glacial lake on the top end of the Mendenhall Glacier broke though the ice dam that held it back and brought flooding conditions to the
lake and the surrounding area. No homes were flooded, but it did raise the lake level by 5 feet. They didn't expect this to happen at were momentarily at a loss as to what was happening. It is feared that this could be a yearly problem due to global warming.

We left Juneau aroud 5:00 for our return trip to Skagway. The Fjordlands captain was diligently working on an impeller that was malfunctioning when we returned to the boat. It took him about 45 minutes to get things fixed.
 
We spent the time watching the salmon jump out of the water and the Bald Eagles and Seagulls gathering around the stream the salmon were trying to swim up.

Shortly after we started back to Skagway the captain slowed the boat and swung it around. He said he thought there was a mama grizzly and a cub fishing in a stream flowing into the fjord.
 

 

 

 Sure enough, a big mama bear scampered into the bushes and watched us approach. When she realized we weren't coming any closer she came back out, followed by her cub, and began to fish. We watched them for several minutes as they clambered around in the water catching fish. The mama would catch a fish and give it to her cub. It was fascinating to watch.

Later we circled a lighthouse in the middle of the fjord and watched otters in the water and seals on the rocks.

 
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Around 8:00 we arrived back in Skagway after a fun-filled day. We saw lots of wildlife and enjoyed our time on the boat. They did serve us muffins and juice on the way and seafood chowder on the return trip.

Tomorrow is a free day, but most of us are going on the White Pass Yukon Railroad for a trip up the mountain used by miners in the 1898 rush for gold in the Yukon. I'll tell you about that tomorrow. Till then - Happy Trails!!
Day50
Wednesday, July 27
A Free Day in Skagway

Skagway is known for it's rainy foggy weather, and today started out just that way. It looked as if our free day might be a rainy day. But as time went by, the rain stopped, the fog lifted and we ended up with a pretty good day weatherwise.

Many from our group took advantage of the stores on tourist trap row in downtown Skagway to make a few souvenir purchases.  Christmas shopping or just getting something to remember our trip by was what many chose to do. Kris and Karl found bargains on jackets as they braved the crowds from the four cruise ships that were in port today.
 
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We were able to find a lot of "Alaska made" gifts in the locally owned stores.

Optional activities were a part of today's agenda for many. Roni, Bruce, Chris, Mary, Ron and Jackie all went to the Musher's Camp to learn about dog-sledding. the camp, located near Dyea was up on a high hill.  
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A large pen of puppies attracted a lot of attention from everyone. After a briefing on mushing, everyone loaded a converted Mercedes truck for long ride up the mountain to the track. All six of our hearty companions climbed into a sled to take a turn around the track with the sleddogs leading the way. After the ride everyone had the opportunity to pet and play with the puppies and the other dogs.

In the afternoon 15 brave souls challenged the Alaskan Zipline. 
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The whole zipline course was set high on the side of a mountain. We were required to ride 800' up extremely steep roads in the same converted Mercedes truck to reach the staging camp.
 

 

 

 

 
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After gearing up, which took quite a while and inspired lots of laughs, we practiced on a short "bunny" run just to get the feel of the ride. The 2nd run required you to run about 20 feet and jump off a cliff; the 3rd run found us on a platform 75' above the ground. The only way down was to step off the edge and slide down the cable. It took a little talking by Ronie and Cindy to get Jenna to take that step. The fourth run was a long 753' run through the trees about 50' off the ground. All of the other runs were short but fast. This whole venue was just built this past winter.  
 
 
 
 
 
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They cut the roads, milled timbers from the trees they cut down, and built suspension bridges, walkways and platforms all over the side of the mountain. A swift moving mountain stream tumbled over huge boulders throughout the course. It was an amazingly beautiful site and a somewhat frightening course to zip - probably more frightening to some than others. Ken laid back and took in the sites while zipping. Chris on the other hand snapped photos in flight. Janice amazed us all with her five=pointed star flight. Marge was apprehensive at the beginning, but she took to zipping lke a bird to flight. While most enjoyed the whole activity, others were more than happy to see the final line.

After returning to Skagway Ron, Cindy, Bruce, Roni, Carl, Chris, Jenna and I went to the Red Onion for dinner. Steve "the 'stache" and Christian, our guides on the zipline joined us for dinner and drinks. It was "the 'stache's" birthday so we had a good time reliving our time on the zipline and hearing the boy's tales. After dinner we went to the Bonanza Bar and Grill for a Kareoke (sp) night. None of us perfomed, but we had fun listening.

Free days are also days to catch up on sleep, get the laundry done, clean house or just relax with a good book. I'm sure everyone enjoyed his free day whether they shopped, mushed, zipped or just relaxed.

Tomorrow, its off to Juneau. Till then - Happy trails.